Life under a fascist regime

Location: Pondicherry
Country: India

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We had a most wonderful time in Varkala. I sat on the balcony most of the day reading my book, occasionally getting up for food and shopping (got pretty good prices as there weren’t many tourist around, and the shop keepers were desperate). Paula was a little more active than me; she went down to the beach a couple of times and went for walks.
We both had a really great time there.


From Varkala we got an 11 hour night train to Madurai. Madurai is an awful Indian city, very dirty and very noisy, pretty unwelcoming to tourist.
There is only one reason to go there and that is to see the Sri Meenakshi Temple, which I think is the most impressive temple in India, they are trying to get it added to the seven wonders of the world list.

We arrived in Madurai early morning, got a couple of hours sleep in a horrible guest house, visited the Gandhi memorial museum which was ok and the Tirumalai Nayak palace which was quite impressive (well, what was left of it was).
We had to wait to see the temple in the afternoon, as it is a big area to walk around and of course you are not allowed to go in with your shoes on (does anyone know where the Indians got this obsession about shoe removal?).
The temple was absolutely magnificent; I have not seen anything like it. It was worth stopping in that horrid town just to see it.


That night we got an 8 hour night bus to Pondicherry, we were desperate to get out of Madurai, and were ready to do it as soon as we had seen the temple.
We were really looking forward to Pondicherry, sounded real good in the “lonely planet” and we got good recommendations from other travelers.
Personally, I am a bit disappointed by it, it is quite a strange place, could be explained by the fact that it was ruled by the French till 50 years ago.
It is quite a nice clean town, but I just haven’t connected to it.

The most interesting thing to tell about here is the guesthouse that we are staying at. It is owned by the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, as is half of this town. Most of the good cheap guesthouses are owned by the Ashram, and ours is considered to be the best.
I have never lived under fascist rule, but I imagine it would be something like staying in this guesthouse.
When we checked in, we had to read their list of rules and regulations, there is also a copy hung on our door and we received an additional copy to have with us at all times.
I have decided that I must write it out for you, as it is just too amusing:

READ THESE GUIDELINES CAREFULLY; LET ALL MEMBERS WHO ARE WITH YOU BE AWARE OF THEM.
* Smoking, alcoholic drinks and drugs are strictly prohibited.
* Gates if the guesthouse remain closed from 22:30 till 05:00.
* Get your room cleaned in your presence before 17:00.
* No servants and drivers are permitted in the guesthouse.
* Guests wanting to receive friends and relatives may do so in the visitor’s room from 15:30 till 18:00 – No visitors are allowed in the guests’ rooms.
* No pets are allowed.
* Room rent must be paid at least one day before departure from 08:00 to 11:00.
* Use cloths stand for drying clothes.
* No tips to individual workers, if you wish, contribute at the reception.
* Speak softly after 21:00.
* Room key must be given to the reception when out of the guesthouse.

The people at the reception were really strict and unfriendly, I almost walked out, but I knew I wouldn’t find a better guesthouse from the point of view of room and price, and it also has really pretty gardens and is right on the beach.

We were told we must state in advance the exact amount of days we want to stay, which is a virtually unheard of request (we just gave a random number that came to mind, as they didn't think of charging in advance).
The morning we arrived we were dead tired, so we just went to eat in the dinning room of the guesthouse. I took toast with butter and asked for them not to apply the butter, I would do it myself, I was told by the stern waitress that “butter is already applied”, I told her I understood that, but I want mine not to be applied, the answer was “butter is already applied”.
As is many places in the south, there is no hot water in the showers, you can get hot buckets. After the long bus ride in, I just wanted to get in the shower and wash my hair. I went happily to get hot water, but hot water is supplied only between 06:00-09:00 and 18:00-21:00. I was not happy having a cold shower, I’ll tell you that.
They are kind enough to have mosquito nets in the rooms (loads of mosquitoes here), which you have to attach to the bed with these sticks, they have precise instructions and an illustration of how this should be done.
That is a fascist regime for you, for better and for worse – Strict, efficient, orderly, loads of rules and regulations, set times for everything, professional.
They do have their spiritual side as well – There is yoga every morning on the lawn, group meditation, the mineral water you buy in the guesthouse is herbal water (something which I’m still trying to figure out), and above the door of every room they have a positive affirmation word, such as: “tenderness”, “perfection”, “transformation”, “clarity”, “honesty”, “devotion”, “truth”, “aspiration” etc. etc. etc.
I just find the place extremely amusing, and can not seem to stop making sarcastic remarks to Paula.
I think a couple more nights here will be more than enough, and we will move on to Mahabalipuram.